My Finnish dream
In August, I walked the St. Olav Waterway over the course of two weeks, crossing the Turku archipelago and the Åland Islands. I truly enjoyed the silence, the ferry trips, and the beautiful nature. This was my first multi-day hike, but it certainly won’t be my last. The St. Olav Waterway has deepened my love for nature and walking — this journey marks the beginning of many future hiking adventures.
Through the book Onderweg by Francine Postma, about the S:t Olavsleden, I came across Nordic Pilgrim. On their website, I discovered that, in addition to the S:t Olavsleden, they also offered a hike through Finland and across Åland — the St. Olav Waterway. I have a special bond with Finland, so I was immediately enthusiastic, and it didn’t take long before I contacted Nordic Pilgrim to book my trip.
My special connection with Finland began four years ago. I had been a huge fan of the Nordic countries for over twelve years, and that passion inspired me to move to Finland. Once there, I instantly fell in love with the nature and the peace that the country radiates. Unfortunately, after some time, I developed severe physical problems that made it impossible for me to walk or even stand. The Finnish doctors couldn’t help me, and I was unable to take care of myself because of these physical limitations.
As a result, my Finnish dream fell apart, and after a year I had to move back to the Netherlands. After many medical examinations there, I finally recovered after a year and a half. During that period — when I literally couldn’t walk — the dream of doing a long-distance walk began to take shape. With the St. Olav Waterway on my schedule, the circle felt complete: I would fulfill my walking dream in the very country where my Finnish dream had once collapsed.
During my hike, I enjoyed almost every single step – not only because my body was working again, but also because I was in my favorite country, surrounded by breathtaking nature. I was there just after the high season, so I didn’t meet any other pilgrims along the way. It was wonderful to be alone in nature, walking through forests and picnicking in the most beautiful spots. Almost daily, I spotted deer in the wild, swam in the sea, and had my lunch by a lake or in the forest.
My original plan was to organize the entire trip myself, but I soon discovered that it was quite difficult with all the ferry crossings. In addition, there are only a limited number of places to stay overnight. In the end, I’m very happy that I asked Ruben from Nordic Pilgrim for help. The accommodations he arranged were fantastic. Most included a delicious breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner.
As a vegan, I’ve had mixed experiences with food while traveling, especially in rural areas. Ruben told me that he is vegan himself and that he would make sure I could eat vegan everywhere — and he kept his word. Finland and Åland turned out to be very vegan-friendly, and I enjoyed delicious meals throughout the journey.
The St. Olav Waterway is the perfect hike for anyone who loves peace and nature. And be quick — it’s not very well-known yet, so if you go now, you’ll still have the path mostly to yourself.
You can find a detailed report of my hike on Instagram at @roosfreije
Roos Freije, The Netherlands
