Snowstorm

"I was one of the first pilgrims to set out on the S:t Olavsleden in 2023. My journey began in early May, in Sundsvall, and ended more than a month later in Trondheim. Starting that early in the season meant one thing was certain: the weather would be unpredictable. And it was — everything from warm, sunny days to snowstorms in the mountains.

Before I left, I knew the conditions could be difficult, so I prepared carefully. I trained at home in rough weather with a full backpack, learning how my body and gear would hold up. I decided not to camp along the way — instead, I focused on packing smart and light. Layers of clothing were essential. I also carried a gas stove and a rescue bivy bag, just in case.

The first week was almost deceptively beautiful. The sun was shining, the air was crisp, and I felt the excitement of a new adventure with every step. But then, everything changed. The wind picked up, the rain came, and temperatures dropped quickly. I checked the rain radar every morning and planned my route to dodge the worst of it. Local people along the trail were kind and always willing to share advice about conditions ahead. Even when it was tough, I enjoyed every minute. I met only two or three other hikers the entire time, but that suited me perfectly. The main reason I wanted to walk the S:t Olavsleden was to be alone — to have time in silence and nature, far from everything else.

My favorite section was from Revsund to Pilgrimstad. The nature there felt untouched — deep forests, calm lakes, and that soft northern light that makes everything look serene. I also loved the stretch between Hålland and Åre, a newer route that climbs gently uphill through the same breathtaking landscape. Then came the mountains — and the snow. Between Medstugan and Sul, a snowstorm rolled in. The world around me disappeared into white. The wind howled, the snow stung my face, and soon the only footprints visible were my own, freshly pressed into the untouched snow. It was harsh, but it was also one of the most powerful moments of the journey. I was completely alone — small against the wild, but exactly where I wanted to be.

If I were to give advice to future pilgrims, it would be this: prepare well. Train your body to walk 25 kilometers a day for several days in a row. Practice at home with your backpack — on asphalt, in the shoes you’ll wear on the trail. Choose your gear wisely and pack lightly; your backpack shouldn’t weigh more than 11 kilos, food and water included. Take breaks, drink plenty of water, and be kind to yourself along the way.

And most importantly, if you plan to tent, think it through carefully. Out there, you’re often alone — really alone. But if you’re prepared, the solitude becomes something beautiful. Because in that silence, with snow falling all around and only your footprints behind you, you find something rare: complete peace."

Lars, Switzerland